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When curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary triumph.