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In the mirror, I can see myself in huge gilded pantaloons, perceptible exclusively in my view. Children play in a rock pool pretending to be sea nymphs, meanwhile nearby rests a speaking vegetable in a exhibition box, next to a tall stack of cushions. This is the universe of H.C. Andersen (1805-1875), a leading 1800s most beloved authors. I’m in this Danish town, located on Fyn in the south of the Danish kingdom, to explore Andersen’s timeless impact in his home town 150 years after his death, and to experience a few enchanted tales of my own.

The Museum: HC Andersens Hus

Andersen's House is the local cultural center honoring the writer, featuring his original residence. An expert explains that in past designs of the museum there was little focus on his fairytales. His personal history was examined, but The Ugly Duckling were absent. For visitors who visit the city seeking storytelling magic, it was somewhat disappointing.

The redevelopment of Odense city centre, rerouting a major road, provided the opportunity to rethink how the city’s most famous son could be celebrated. An international design contest granted the Japanese company the Kengo Kuma team the contract, with the curators’ new approach at the core of the layout. The distinctive timber-clad museum with interlinked curving spaces launched to much acclaim in 2021. “Our goal was to create a space where we move beyond simply describing the writer, but we speak in the manner of Andersen: with wit, sarcasm and perspective,” notes the expert. The landscape design follow this philosophy: “The outdoor area for wanderers and for colossal creatures, it's planned to create a feeling of diminutiveness,” he notes, a goal achieved by thoughtful gardening, experimenting with height, scale and multiple meandering routes in a surprisingly compact space.

Andersen's Impact

The author penned two and a half memoirs and often contradicted himself. HC Andersens Hus adopts this philosophy seriously; frequently the views of his companions or snippets of written messages are shown to subtly challenge the his narrative of incidents. “The writer is the guide, but he’s not reliable,” explains the curator. The outcome is a compelling whirlwind tour of his personal story and art, thought processes and most popular narratives. This is provocative and whimsical, for mature visitors and children, with a bonus lower-level make-believe land, the fictional village, for the youngest visitors.

Visiting the Town

Back in the real world, the compact town of Odense is picturesque, with stone-paved roads and old wooden houses painted in cheerful shades. The writer's influence is ubiquitous: the road indicators show the author with his distinctive formal headwear, brass footprints provide a free guided stroll, and there’s a art walk too. Each summer this dedication culminates with the yearly Andersen celebration, which marks the his influence through creativity, movement, stage shows and music.

Recently, the seven-day festival had numerous performances, many were free. During my time in this place, I come across colorful performers on stilts, spooky creatures and an writer impersonator sharing tales. I listen to feminist spoken-word pieces and observe an remarkable nocturnal display with graceful performers lowering from the city building and dangling from a mechanical arm. Upcoming events during the season are presentations, family art workshops and, expanding the oral history past the author, the city’s annual Magic Days festival.

Every excellent enchanted locations require a castle, and this region contains over a hundred manors and stately homes across the island

Pedaling Through History

Like most of Denmark, bikes are the best way to travel around in Odense and a “bicycle route” meanders through the city centre. Departing from Hotel Odeon, I ride to the complimentary harbour-side swimming pool, then out of town for a loop around Stige Ø, a small island connected by causeway to the mainland. Town dwellers relax with food here in the evening, or appreciate a peaceful time fishing, paddleboarding or swimming.

Returning to town, I eat at Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the menu is derived from author-inspired concepts and narratives. The literary work Denmark, My Native Land appears when I visit, and owner the restaurateur reads extracts, presented in English, as he introduces the meal. It’s an experience repeated often in my visit, the fynbo love a yarn and it feels as though sharing tales is constantly offered here.

Historic Estate Tours

Each wonderful enchanted locations require a palace, and Fyn features numerous historic homes and estates throughout the region. Taking day trips from Odense, I visit Egeskov Palace, Europe’s most intact historic fortress. While much of it are open to visitors, the castle is also the family home of the noble family and his partner, the princess. I wonder if she can feel a tiny vegetable through a mound of {mattresses